Every sink in the house, done right
Most of what goes wrong with a sink install happens where you can't see it — inside the cabinet and under the counter. Around Indiana, Homer City, and Blairsville, a lot of the housing stock is old enough that the plumbing behind the new fixture is the real job: shutoff valves seized since the Reagan administration, crusty braided lines, traps assembled from three different hardware-store runs. I handle all of it, on every kind of sink:
- Kitchen sinks — single and double bowl, drop-in, undermount, and farmhouse, with disposals and dishwasher tie-ins plumbed correctly.
- Bathroom sinks — vanity tops, pedestals, and vessel bowls, set level and caulked so water stays where it belongs.
- Bar and prep sinks — small fixtures with the same full-size supply and drain work behind them.
- Laundry and utility sinks — deep tubs that take real abuse, mounted so they don't shift when you fill them.
Faucet-only upgrades are welcome too. Swapping a worn two-handle unit for a modern single-lever or pull-down faucet is one of the cheapest upgrades a kitchen can get — as long as whoever does it doesn't crack the old supply stops in the process.
Signs it's time to deal with the sink
- The faucet drips no matter how hard you crank the handle
- Water pressure at that one fixture has quietly gotten worse for years
- The caulk line around the basin is black, cracked, or peeling
- A drop-in sink shifts or the counter around it feels soft
- You keep a bucket or a towel in the cabinet "just in case"
- The shutoff valves underneath won't budge — or won't stop
How I install a sink or faucet
- Measure and check the rough-in. Bowl dimensions, faucet hole spread, drain location, cabinet clearance — I confirm the fixture actually fits before anything gets torn out.
- Pull the old fixture cleanly. Water off, lines drained, old basin and faucet out without gouging the countertop or the cabinet floor.
- Replace the tired parts while I'm in there. New quarter-turn shutoff valves and fresh supply lines cost little now and prevent the flood later. This is the step most quick-swap installs skip.
- Set, seal, and support the basin. Drop-ins get a full bead and even clamping; undermounts get proper clips and adhesive rated for the countertop material — never caulk-and-hope.
- Assemble the drain with real trap geometry. Correct trap arm slope, a real P-trap at the right height, and slip joints you can service — not a zigzag of flex pipe.
- Test under pressure. Hot and cold run full-bore, the basin gets filled and dumped, and every joint is checked dry before I pack up.
Remodeling? I'll work with your countertop installer
Undermount sinks and stone countertops have to be coordinated — the sink typically gets mounted to the slab before or during the top install, and the plumbing has to be disconnected and reconnected on the fabricator's schedule, not mine. I do this regularly: disconnect day one, reconnect after the top is set, and make sure the new faucet, disposal, and dishwasher connections all land where the cabinet layout needs them. Tell your countertop company you have a plumber lined up and I'll take it from there.
Straight talk on cost
A faucet swap and a farmhouse-sink conversion are very different jobs, so I don't quote either one over the phone sight-unseen. What I will do: look at the fixture and the plumbing behind it, then send you one written number that includes the valves, lines, and seals — not a teaser price that grows once the cabinet doors open.
Sink & Faucet Installation across Indiana County
I'm based in Indiana, PA and provide sink & faucet installation throughout the county and just beyond it, including:
- Homer City, PA
- Blairsville, PA
- Clymer, PA
- Saltsburg, PA
- Marion Center, PA
- Punxsutawney, PA
- Cherry Tree, PA
- More towns I serve
Frequently asked questions
Will you install a sink or faucet I bought myself?
Absolutely. Plenty of my customers pick out their own fixture online or at the big-box store, and I'm happy to install it. One honest caveat: if the faucet you bought is a bargain-bin model with plastic internals, I'll say so before I put it in — you're free to proceed, but I'd rather you know up front than call me back in a year.
How long does a faucet or sink swap take?
A straightforward faucet replacement is usually done in an hour or two. A full sink replacement takes longer — pulling the old basin, cleaning up the counter, resetting the drain and trap — and an undermount in a stone countertop is a bigger job still. I'll give you a realistic time window when I quote it, not a guess.
Do you install garbage disposals?
Yes. I install new disposals, replace dead ones, and add a disposal to a sink that never had one — including running the switch wiring coordination and re-working the drain so both bowls still flow right. I'll also size the unit to your household instead of just grabbing the cheapest one on the shelf.
What's better, an undermount or a drop-in sink?
Neither is better — they solve different problems. A drop-in is simpler to install and works with any countertop, but the rim catches crumbs. An undermount gives you a clean wipe-straight-into-the-sink counter, but it has to be properly clipped, glued, and supported under a solid-surface top or it will eventually sag. I install both and I'll tell you plainly which suits your counter.
My shutoff valves under the sink won't turn. Can you replace those too?
Yes, and I usually recommend it. Old shutoff valves in Indiana County homes are often seized open or weep the moment you touch them. Replacing the shutoffs and the supply lines while the sink is already apart adds little to the job and means the next time something drips, you can actually turn the water off.
Stop babysitting that drip.
One visit, one written quote, and a sink you never have to think about again.